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Tools, explained

Blueprints of the tools we trust

A barber needs very few tools. These are the ones we rate. Tap the numbered callouts to see how each works.

01 DE BLADE05 BASE PLATE03 MACHINED CAP02 TINY BLADEEXPOSURE04 KNURLED HANDLEFIG. 01 · SAFETY RAZORNTS

Precision safety razor · Henson Shaving

The Henson Shave System in Aircraft Aluminum

A safety razor clamps a standard double-edge blade between a cap and a base plate. Henson’s design supports the blade very close to its edge, so only a tiny sliver is exposed.

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DE blade

Takes standard double-edge blades, which are cheap and widely available. Only one edge is exposed in this design.

The science: Single-blade shaving with the grain is often suggested for people prone to razor bumps (PFB review, 2019).

US$99at Henson Shaving, as listed 19 Oct 2026
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01 PIVOTING HEAD02 HALF DE BLADES03 PIVOT JOINT04 METAL HANDLEFIG. 02 · PIVOT RAZORNTS

Pivoting single-edge · Leaf Shave

Leaf Two Razor

The Leaf Two holds half-blades snapped from standard double-edge blades in a pivoting head, so it follows your jaw like a cartridge razor but with cheap, recyclable blades.

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Pivoting head

The head tilts on a hinge to follow curves like the jaw and chin, which makes the switch from cartridges easier.

The science: Fewer blades can mean fewer very close re-cuts, which reviews link with ingrown hairs in prone skin (PFB review).

US$109at Leaf Shave, as listed 19 Oct 2026
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01 PLANT OILS03 WAX FOR HOLD02 BUTTERS04 HOW TO APPLYFIG. 03 · BEARD BALMNTS

Hold & condition · Beardbrand

Tree Ranger Beard Balm

Beard balm is a blend of butters, oils and wax. Warmed between the palms, the oils soften the hair and skin while the wax gives light hold to shape it.

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Plant oils

Light oils soften coarse hair and moisturise the skin beneath, which helps with beard itch and flakes.

The science: Moisturisers support the skin barrier and reduce dryness and irritation (review, 2017). Beard itch is often dry skin underneath.

US$36at Beardbrand, as listed 19 Oct 2026
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02 HANDLE BLOCK01 BRISTLES03 TRAINDIRECTIONFIG. 04 · BEARD BRUSHNTS

Brush & train · Murdock London

Redchurch Beard Brush

Daily brushing spreads your skin’s natural oils along the hair, lifts out flakes and trains the beard to grow in the direction you want.

Callout

Bristles

Dense, firm bristles reach through to the skin to spread oil and lift out dead skin and debris.

The science: Gentle grooming keeps the skin barrier intact; harsh scrubbing can irritate. Check the listing for bristle material and care.

£25.50at Murdock London, as listed 19 Oct 2026
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03 SKIN CONTACT01 LATHER CUSHION02 LOW-FOAM CREAMFIG. 05 · SHAVE CREAMNTS

Glide & protection · Henson Shaving

Protect Shave Cream

A shave cream forms a slick cushion between blade and skin, holding water against the hair so it stays soft while you shave.

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Lather cushion

Tiny bubbles hold water against the hair and give the blade something to glide on.

The science: Softened, well-lubricated hair needs less force to cut, which is why every barber starts with warm water and lather.

US$19.99at Henson Shaving, as listed 19 Oct 2026
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30°02 SPINE05 SHAVE ANGLE04 SCALES(HANDLE)03 PIVOT PIN01 CUTTING EDGEFIG. 06 · STRAIGHT RAZORNTS

The barber’s classic · Truefitt & Hill

Straight Razor - Horn

A straight razor is a single hollow-ground steel blade that folds into its scales. It needs stropping and honing, and a lot of practice, but gives total control.

Callout

Cutting edge

Hollow-ground steel takes an extremely fine edge. It must be stropped on leather before each shave.

The science: With any blade, light pressure, a shallow angle (around 30°) and shaving with the grain are the basics for less irritation.

£319at Truefitt & Hill, as listed 19 Oct 2026
View at Truefitt & Hill ↗

Prices as listed by each retailer on 19 October 2026 and may change. Some links are affiliate links: we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Disclosure